Magic Glos Tips and FAQs
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you cure Magic Glos in direct sunlight?
Yes, Magic Glos will cure in direct sunlight in about 5-15 minutes depending on the intensity of the UV light waves, thickness and size area of the piece. Adding inclusions such as glitter may lenghten the cure time, but once exposed to long wave UV light, the product will continue to cure in absence of UV light. Note: Magic Glos will not cure near a window you must put it in direct sunlight.
How many layers of Magic Glos can I do?
Thicker applications can be achieved by adding in layers and curing in between, It is designed to dome and creates a cabochon like effect when cured in layers. Foils, decals, and transfers can be added to layers for dimensional effects. Thicker layers actually maginify the underlying surface as there is no loss in clarity.
Can I use Magic Glos with Swarovski Crystals?
Yes, yes, yes! Magic Glos loves Swarovski Crystals and other embellishments. Instead of using expoxy with flat-back crystals use Magic Glos. It's superior since it is non-toxic, no order and requires no mixing. It also has a working time of 1-2 hours indoors which makes it much more user friendly, not to mention safer than expoxies.
Is there temperature sensitivity for Magic-Glos?
I wouldn't be concerned about general temperature sensitivity for Magic-glos®. This product will withstand heat of several hundred degrees Fahrenheit. It can even be baked with clay. Extreme temperature such as these will slight darken the glos. This can intensify colored clays, foils and transfers, but white will become more of a sepia or antique white tone when baked. We have not seen visible yellowing under normal indoor conditions over time, This isn't to say that the material won't darken in years to come or when used outdoors. The product is just under two years old and we are awaiting long term results with it.
How durable and long-lasting is Magic-Glos? Is it scratch resistant and does it yellow or cracking over time?
Magic-Glos is quite durable and scratch resistant, but not scratch proof. We have had the product out for just under 2 years now and no signs of natural yellowing occurring. The product will however yellow slightly if baked over 125F degrees. We do not have long term results that surpass the two year mark. The product has a shelf-life of a year. It will thicken as it surpasses that mark, but can be diluted with fresh Magic-Glos. I have several pieces that I toss into my purse and other travel containers myself and it has held up beautifully.
Usage Tips & Tricks
Magic-Glos™ is an amazing dimensional medium that can be used on most surfaces. It can be applied without dams or sidewalls to contain it. Applications that are too thick will not hold a bead and may overflow past surface edges. On some materials, Magic-Glos™ will pull away from the edges. Heavier (thicker) or application of multiple layers (curing between each layer) will alleviate this problem or correct it creating a beautiful rounded finish. Lisa’s new glossing agent can be mixed with inclusions such as glitter, dried flowers, beads, etc. It’s ideal on most other creative surfaces to add shine or dimensional effects such as water droplets, raised patterns, etc.
Features of Magic-Glos™:
* One-step, no additional sealing or cleaning methods are required!
Magic-Glos™ dries in minutes (not hours or days!). This product requires UV light to cure. It dries in the sun (outdoors), or under UV lighting using a 40-watt fluorescent black light (incandescent black lights don’t work) or 6 Watt or higher UV Lamp. Typical cure time is 5–15 minutes depending on size of cure area and thickness of layer. Adding inclusions, partly cloudy conditions and thicker layers may take longer to harden.
Ideal for backfills over textured clay and surfaces that can’t be sanded/polished, yet magnifies detail and dimension!
Has few if any air bubbles. Air bubbles are easily removed by passing a direct heat source like a butane torch or embossing gun a few times over the gloss very quickly. (Do not over heat as this may burn clay or substrate surface).
Great for sealing and protecting transfers, foils, leafing, mosaics, delicate surfaces, and more! No Shrinkage!
Can be used as a transparent panel alone (sealing objects between two or more layers).
Terrific for most paper arts. (Papers and fabrics coated with water-soluble sealers such as decoupage fluid should not be coated with Magic-glos™.) Photographic paper, regular paper and fabric should be sealed to create a waterproof barrier before applying Magic-glos™. Use clear packing tape, transparent shelf liner, laminating film.
Store in cool dry place.
Trouble Shooting Guide for Magic-Glos
Magic-Glos is the ideal coating and sealer for polymer clay and other waterproof surfaces. The product is not suitable for all applications. If you are experiencing challenges in working with the product, please consult the answers below.
Problem: The product won’t cure (harden).
Make sure that true UV light is being used. Also, any surface that is not waterproof has to be sealed beforehand. When in doubt, seal the surface by coating with liquid clay and baking according to the manufacturer’s directions before applying Magic-Glos. Alternative methods of sealing include clear packing tape, laminating film, or clear contact paper. In many cases, it is advisable to seal the front and back of the material being coated. Polymer clay and other non-permeable surfaces shouldn’t require sealing.
Problem: Product appears to cure, but clouding appears in days/weeks.
This is likely due to a chemical reaction as described above. This can occur when the substance that isn’t waterproof (ink, paper coatings, Modge Podge, etc.) is liquefied by coming into contact with another liquid (in this case Magic-Glos), only the surface cures while the chemical reaction between the item being coated and the Magic-Glos, occurs more slowly.
Seal all items requiring coating properly before applying Magic-Glos.
Problem: Magic-Glos doesn’t appear smooth and glass-like
This occurs when an insufficient amount of product is used. Pouring the product on thick enough to self-level will fix this. Brushing the product on will not result in a smooth, glass-like finish.
Pour a thicker layer on or add additional layers after the initial curing, making sure there is enough to self-level.
Problem: There are air bubbles in my cured Magic-Glos
While air bubbles seldom occur with the product, they are easy to fix when the proper methods are followed. Fortunately, when air bubbles occur, typically they are few.
When air bubbles occur even after following product directions that call for exposure to a flash of intense heat (such as from a butane torch), this is an indication that not all air bubbles were near the surface. This can sometimes occur when applying very thick layers of the resin, especially when using a bezel setting.
Problem: Magic-Glos pulls away from the edge while curing or beads-up resulting in uneven coverage.
There is a very slight amount of shrinkage with this product. Most pulling away from the edge of a surface occurs on open work (without a bezel setting or walls to contain it). This can be the result of too little product being applied. Another reason this occurs is due to the product’s doming property. It is designed so that it can form a gently rounded surface like a cabochon.
Problem: The surface is cured, but the underlying layer is still soft.
The surface of Magic-Glos will cure first. On deeper applications or those with lots of inclusions, the product will take longer to cure all the way through. Magic-Glos will “shadow cure.” This means that once exposed to UV light for several minutes, it will continue to cure in the absence of light on it’s own. This happens more slowly than when curing under UV light. If Magic-Glos doesn’t cure on the lower layers or blooms (crystallizes or clouds, this is a sign that there is a chemical reaction between the resin and the surface of what is being coated that prevents the Magic-Glos from properly curing.
Avoid placing pressure on freshly cured pieces. Pieces are generally completely hard all the way through within an hour.
Problem: I’ve poured on too much Magic-Glos.
While working with a bezel setting or other object with sidewalls, this is seldom a problem. Practice from working with the product, especially with open sided surfaces will help minimalize or prevent the risk of over-application.
Clean up excess before curing if possible. This can be difficult or impossible to do without creating more problems.
Even thought some waste is involved, usually the best fix is to remove any excess material after curing. File or sand away excess Magic-Glos. When an overflow occurs, some resin may seep under the setting/piece. Simply wipe away with a baby wipe or damp paper towel. Another layer may need to be applied to smooth any surface deviations.
Problem: Magic-Glos is yellowing.
While Magic-Glos can be baked with polymer clay at temperatures up to 275° degrees Fahrenheit (135° Celsius), it may yellow or darken slightly. When white or light clays/inclusions are seen through the cured gloss, these may appear yellow or sepia toned. The yellowing effect tends to intensify darker colors such with use of Lisa Pavelka colored foils. Yellowing/darkening over white/lightly colored clays/paper is not necessarily unattractive in your finished piece, but it helps to be aware that this may occur.
Curing in direct sunlight for prolonged periods of time under the sun may result in some yellowing of the gloss. Also, continual or long-term exposure to direct sunlight can cause some darkening/yellowing over time.
UV lamp curing is recommended to avoid this problem. When curing in direct sunlight, cure only long enough to set the product. Avoid storing or placing cured Magic-Glos in direct sunlight.
Problem: Paper coated by Magic-Glos is discoloring/yellowing.
This can be a reaction caused by the type of paper that is being coated. Whether Magic-Glos is being applieddirectly (not recommended) or onto a paper surface or a sealed surface (as recommended) this may occur. Some papers are chemically sensitive or have coatings that can react to Magic-Glos or the recommended materials for sealing (clear adhesives or liquid polymer clay).
When using liquid polymer clay as a sealer and heating/baking according to manufacture’s directions doesn’t typically discolor paper. Paper has a burn or flashpoint of 411° degrees Fahrenheit (135° Celsius). Some but not all papers may discolor when exposed to heats up to 275° degrees Fahrenheit (211° Celsius).
Test papers first by using either direct Magic-Glos or recommended sealing applications.
Problem: Magic-Glos is getting too thick to use.
Magic-Glos has a one-year shelf life. When properly stored (tightly capped in a dark location) the product may remain pour-able a bit longer. Thickened Magic-Glos can be used thinned with fresh Magic-Glos. If the material reaches this state, it is ideal to create formulas of custom viscosity (thickness).
Lisa Pavelka actually stores away Magic-Glos to age it (like fine wine). Cut off the top of the container and use the handle of a disposable plastic utensil or a wooden skewer to scoop the product into a capped, opaque container (that won’t allow light to penetrate. This container must be clean of all other materials/contaminants.
Scoop out small amounts and mix with fresh Magic-Glos in a clean, dry disposable cup to create thicker formulas. Stir thoroughly until blended with a disposable utensil or wooden skewer. The Magic-Glos will become cloudy. This it thousands of tiny air bubbles forming while mixing. Cover and store over-night in a dark location. By morning, the tiny bubbles will have disappeared. Keep in mind that air bubbles that may form while applying the thicker formula will take longer to rise to the surface. Allow applied product to rest for 10-15 minutes before popping surface bubbles with heat. This step may need to be repeated one or two more time with very thick applications to allow all bubbles to rise to the surface.